【客户资讯】食庐传承经典 创造“新式淮扬”料理

“夫礼之初,始诸饮食”根植于江淮文化的淮扬美食,历史悠久,积淀深厚。食庐传承经典淮扬,又以创新精神重新诠释淮扬美食,带来属于食庐独特的“新淮扬”料理。

The dietary activities of the ancestors were major sources of China’s etiquette. Nurtured with a long history and rich culture, Huaiyang cuisine is an epitome of the fertile lands and produce of the lower reaches of the Huai and Yangtze rivers. The Hut is revitalising ancient culinary treasures while honouring tradition to bring forward new Huaiyang cuisine that’s unique to the restaurant, simple but without losing refinement.

原淮扬菜是指流行于江苏扬州、镇江、淮安及其附近地域的菜肴,是江苏菜系的代表性风味。从地理上看地接长江,紧挨着京杭大运河,从古至今就是富庶的鱼米之乡。淮扬菜的兴起可追溯与距今1400多年前的隋朝。隋朝大运河修建期间,隋炀帝曾经三下江都,客观上促进了淮扬菜的发展。而到了清朝,康熙与乾隆频频南巡,逗留淮安与扬州,淮扬菜发展已经成熟,受到了两位帝王的推崇。当时便出现了名气极大的“全鳝席”、“红烧狮子头”、“钦工肉圆”、“淮安文楼汤包”、“马鞍桥”、“三套鸭”、“大煮干丝”等淮扬经典菜。与鲁、川、粤菜共同成为中国“四大菜系”之一。49年的开国第一宴、50周年国庆宴也都是淮扬菜。

Traditionally, Huaiyang cuisine is derived from the native cooking styles centred on the cities of Huai’an, Yangzhou and Zhenjiang in Jiangsu Province. Geographically connected to the Yangtze River and next to the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, the Huaiyang region has been known since ancient times as a “land of fish and rice”. The rise of Huaiyang cuisine can be traced back to more than 1400 years ago, when Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty visited Jiangdu (in modern Yangzhou, Jiangsu) three times during the construction of the Grand Canal, promoting the development of Huaiyang cuisine. During the Qing Dynasty, Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong made frequent visits to Huai’an and Yangzhou, where Huaiyang cuisine had developed and matured over the centuries and was highly regarded by the two emperors. At that time, classic Huaiyang dishes already included the likes of All Eel Banquet, Braised Lion’s Head, Qingong Meatballs, Huai’an Wenlou Soup Dumplings, Braised Eel and Pork, Three-nested Duck and Braised Shredded Chicken with Ham and Dried Tofu. Together with Lu, Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine, it is one of the Four Major Cuisines of China, making presence onto many state banquets including the founding state banquet and the 1999 state banquet.

淮扬菜老菜单 Ancient Menu of Huaiyang Cuisine

淮扬菜既保留了南方菜的鲜、脆、嫩的特点又融合了北方菜的咸、浓、色的特色,形成了自己独有的精细清淡,咸中微甜,老少皆宜的风味。食庐将这份“朴素而典雅”悉心诠释,结合淮扬菜系中的各款经典美食,延续淮扬精致刀工、至臻火功,加以改良,通过全新烹调方式,彰显功夫菜魅力,并在摆盘上融入当代美感思维,以色彩、空间、味道为序,呈现简约、立体、艺术性的视觉享受,呈现舌尖传统与现代潮流的融合佳肴。

Huaiyang cuisine retains the freshness, crispness and tenderness from southern cuisine while fusing the intensive use of salt, spice and soy sauce from northern cuisine, forming its unique delicate, mild, slightly sweet and savoury flavour box that’s loved by people at all ages. The Hut mindfully interprets its simplicity and elegance, taking on various classic delicacies in Huaiyang cuisine through modern cooking techniques, and highlighting the charm of Kung Fu cuisine by instilling modern aesthetic of colour, space and flavour into plating and presentation. The result is a visual pleasure that effortlessly combines simplicity, comprehensiveness and art, while offering a range of finely crafted dishes infused with timelessness and modernity.

传承经典 打造新淮扬
珠光宝气

珠光宝气 Signature Marinated Suckling Pig

食庐新三头宴的头菜,寓意着“鸿运当头”。源于扬州的扒烧整猪头,是祭奠祖先,供奉上天的供品,口感粗糙且造型直观不优美。食庐选用优质乳猪,大厨用密料处理,以腌、烧、卤,烹饪此道菜品,肉质细腻、软糯,创新的淮式红烧味道,搭配姜丝醋料。出品时将猪头肉片成片并摆成可爱的小乳猪造型,憨态可掬,让人忍俊不禁。

With an implication of ‘the first stroke of luck’, this is the first dish of the Three Heads Banquet at The Hut. The dish takes its origin from an offering dish to ancestors – braised whole pig’s head, which is rough in flavour and unattractive in presentation. The Hut has revamped the recipe to use premium quality piglet, secret-recipe seasonings and a variety of cooking methods including marinating, roasting, brining and braising. The meat is delicate and soft with an innovative local braised flavour and served with ginger slices and vinegar. The pork face is served in slices and arranged in the shape of a cute little suckling pig.

淮扬软兜包饼

淮扬软兜包饼 Fired Shredded Eel Served with Pancake, Huaiyang Style

淮安曾有名厨可以鳝为原料,制作108样佳肴,称之为“全鳝席”。而软兜鳝鱼便是鳝鱼席中的精品。食庐选用均匀粗细的鲜活鳝鱼,不像鳝糊般湿滑,神形兼备,蒜香浓郁,吃口非常鲜嫩可口。食庐更富新意,使用北京烤鸭的创意配上夹饼,夹饼薄而软香,与鳝鱼一起,既可以解腻,又不乏为一道热菜主食,新奇又好吃。

The Huaiyang area is no stranger to eel dishes. The story of “All Eel Banquet” has that a renowned chef in Huai’an used to prepare 108 dishes, all using eel as ingredient, among which Soft-pocket Long Fish was a prominent one. The dish is made from fresh eels with uniform thickness, and the result is full of garlicky fragrance and soft-tender mouth feel. What’s more, The Hut takes inspiration from Peking duck and incorporates thin and soft pancakes to wrap the eel, relieving the greasiness while constituting a novel, delicious staple course.

橙香火焰鸭

橙香火焰鸭 Orange Flambe Stuffed Duck

八宝葫芦鸭为淮扬菜传统技艺中的工艺名菜。此菜当年深得乾隆皇帝欢喜做法被收纳进了南巡菜谱《江南节次照常膳底档》,是当时苏州地区最著名的传统名菜。成菜形如葫芦,鸭肉嫩,馅心糍糯疏散,滋味咸鲜香醇。食庐选用乳鸭巧扮成八宝鸭,加入鲜果橙香腌制,同样是在鸭腹中填入馅料,但改烧为烤,走菜前在鸭身上刷一层蜂蜜、摆放橙子,上桌后淋朗姆酒点燃,甜味渗入鸭皮,且跳动的蓝色火焰、扑鼻的橙香提升了整道菜的观赏度。

The Eight Treasure Gourd Duck is a labor-intensive dish in the traditional Huaiyang cuisine. Legend has it that Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty was especially partial to this dish so that the recipe was included in the dietary record of his Southern Inspection Tour, making it the most famous dish in Suzhou at the time. The dish is shaped like a gourd, duck meat tender, filling soft and glutinous. Instead of braising, orange-marinated suckling duck is stuffed with the same filling and roasted to perfection, brushed with a thick layer of velvety honey and paired with fresh oranges before serving. The final step is crucial, where the duck is lit with a drizzle of rum; the sweetness of the honey penetrates the duck skin, the dancing blue flames and refreshing oranges elevating the whole dish.

食庐用更广泛的空间去定义淮扬,更创新的理念去制作料理,更走心的味道去呈现菜品。食庐创始人朱俊先生希望通过食庐给食客带来他心目中的“新淮扬”。

The Hut redefines Huaiyang cuisine in a broader sense, both spatially and conceptionally. Through innovative drives and authentic flavors, Zhu Jun, the founder of The Hut, hopes to convey his rendering of new Huaiyang cuisine to diners home and abroad.

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